Sewing and textiles with Ann
I’ve had my eye on this pattern for a while – Butterick 6063 by Katherine Tilton. It looks sort of casually my style, and as soon as I had finished my Coco I thought that a matching jacket would just make my Coco business style. So I sent for the fabric and pattern last Saturday, with half a plan to make the jacket this weekend. Well, the pattern didn’t arrive until Saturday just after 9 am. By 9.30 all of the pieces were cut out and I was studying the fabric layout.
It has raw edge finishes at the centre front and on the sleeves. I’m not sure why, but that’s designers patterns for you. It’s classed as Average by Butterick, which, since most of their patterns are Easy to Very Easy, means that there is something complicated somewhere in the pattern. I think the complicated part is meant to be the seam where the collar joins the jacket. I did have to get out the pattern pieces and work it out, but once I’d checked which was the small and which was the big dot, I sussed it, and was pleased with myself. In fact the collar sits very nicely, thank you.
With my general problems with button holes, I was predicting that the real problem was going to be the fastenings. And I was right. It’s taken me over 3 hours to trail, error, re-design and then fix the fastenings!
Now I need to say that I have used stable knits to make this – ponta rosa and good quality medium weight jersey, whereas the pattern says to use woven fabric. It actually works quite well with stable knits. In fact, it probably made the collar easier, and as you can simply stretch the fabric to fit in all of the right places. Not that I had to do that, but I could have done.
But I don’t think that I have ever tried to sew proper button holes on knits. That’s not to say that it can’t be done. Two or three of my trial button holes on scraps worked fine. But the first two attempts on the jacket didn’t work well, and it’s not easy fabric to unpick, especially right down the centre front. So I got out my Sewing Bible and studied my options. I had a look at a bound button hole, but the backing fabric needed to be pressed properly, and a stretch knit doesn’t hold a press all that well, so I gave up on that idea. I’d been thinking about this on and off all week, and if all else failed I was going to use press studs to fasten, covered on the front by buttons. Which is what I did, but even that wasn’t easy, as they didn’t line up properly. I have had to re-set 4 of the 6 studs. The buttons are self-covered with the medium weight jersey. I knew I’d be self-covering buttons again. I quite like doing it and you are so sure of a good match.
So hopefully the press stud fastening will work in the real world. As it’s medium weight, I expect to wear this with casual jeans as well as my Coco. I just need to see if I can tolerate the slightly wonky pocket, or whether I need to unpick and re-align that as well. Again, I didn’t want to unpick in the centre of the jacket unnecessarily.
I have enough fabric left for a skirt, so I see a causal suit coming on, as well as the dress / jacket mix. So all being well it will be a much used jacket.