all my own work by ann

Sewing and textiles with Ann

Over-sized T shirt by the Maker’s Atelier

I have started to use the patterns in my new book! The Essential Collection

I chose the oversized T shirt with long sleeves and planned to make use of the remaining Girl Charlie fabric that I have. I had almost exactly the right length, although I ended up cutting quite a bit off both the shirt and sleeve lengths.

It’s an easy make, but I needed to apply lessons learnt from my previous experience of using this fabric. I cut everything from a single layer. Meaning that I created whole pattern pieces, rather than half sections to cut on the fold. That made lining up both the grain and the adjoining sections so much easier.

So how over-sized is this T shirt? It was hard to judge initially, especially when the patterns are in Maker’s Atelier sizes, which don’t bear any relationship to any other sizing. So I started by checking out how I would measure up against a more fitted garment, and then applied that sizing to the over-sized chart. I checked a tissue version against my dress form, recognising that tissue paper and thin jersey have totally different properties. It seemed OK. So I cut what, if anything, was going to be too large, and then I could work down a cm or two.

As a guide, I am close to a 16 at my bust and hips, but a bit bigger round the waist. Size 5/6 fits fine round my body, but both the shirt and sleeves were too long. A normal long sleeve is 56cm on me, but with a dropped shoulder, I wasn’t going to know where the sleeves ended until I had made up the garment.

So I quickly stitched up the seams on the overlocker, and tried it on. Then I did the adjustments before finishing the neck, sleeves and hem. I’m not sure about just turning a simple hem and twin needling… I mean, that’s what I did, but I think I prefer neck bands and sometimes hem bands. Somewhere I have the formula for a neckband. Maybe I will dig it out next time.

I say I stitched quickly; actually it wasn’t that quick. Another lesson learnt from last time I used this fabric was that my fabric slipped a little, and that is so noticeable with stripes. So I tacked all of my seams before overlooking, and it worked. They all line up!

So, I have been wearing my new T shirt for most of the weekend. It’s always a good sign when a garment comes straight from its final press and I start wearing it. But bizarrely, I even met Frances Tobin briefly this weekend at Sewing for Pleasure, and I wasn’t wearing my new top! I wanted to wear a light-weight cardie over a top to wander round the show, and that doesn’t work with an over-sized t-shirt. Oh well!

Thanks to Liz for the photos, and also for buying the book for my birthday, as requested!.

And whilst I think about it, I am wearing my Hanoi trousers, blogged here. I think they are the best fitting trousers that I own. They use Gertie’s cigarette pants pattern, but in fabric with no stretch, and without the side pockets. To be honest, I didn’t expect that when I made them!

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