all my own work by ann

Sewing and textiles with Ann

Hacking V1549

There’s nothing like getting a brand new pattern and deciding to hack it first time out.

This is a Sandra Betzina, Today’s Fit pattern. Every one of my measurement fell between sizes, so the first thing that I had to do was re-draw it, to make it fit. The in-dart pocket needed a bit of care and attention to detail to re-draw.

As I have said before, I tend to be pattern driven rather than fabric driven, and I’d had my eye on this one for a while. I found myself with some leftover fabric from making my third hoodie, and decided that this patten would lend itself quite well to colour blocking, and that with only an extra metre of fabric, I could get a jacket out of the it. But colour blocking is a design feature. The hack came in two forms: I used Ponte Roma – a knit, rather than woven fabric, and I did not line it. I invented a facing for the front to give it a tidy finish.

Colour blocked jacket

Front view


I like the result. I think it will be very wearable mid seasons, and will bridge the smart / casual divide, as well as the seasons. But I recommend that you line it, or omit the pocket from the dart seam. Finishing the seam pocket is a bit tricky, and leaves slightly messy insides, which are probably better covered by a lining. I am also still experimenting with fixing the pockets to the facing to get the best hang of the jacket. But a lining would have been too smart for my purpose, so I’m fine with it as it is.

The back facing is simply a duplicate of the yoke stitched on the inside by hand, to its outer counterpart. To create the inner facing I took the front yoke, attached the pattern piece to the front facing, and the joined them, rounding off the area where they join so that I could finish it neatly on the overlocker. Of course the facings are joined at the shoulder, as you would normally do.

Front facing


Back facing


The pockets had to be stitched on the sewing machine. There are some clear markings that need to meet and match, so precision is called for. After that the jacket grew quickly on the overlocker. Finishing took a little longer, but it was a hot sunny day, so I sat in the back garden with needle, thread and jacket in my hand.

I finished this several weeks ago, but it’s been too warm, or should I say, not cold enough, to wear it yet, but I did manage to wear the hoodie a couple of times back in June. There is even a photo of me wearing it, but it’s a terrible picture. So here it is on the dress form, just like most of my other makes.

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This entry was posted on August 20, 2017 by in coat, Fashion, Handmade, Jackets, Sewing, Vogue patterns and tagged , , , , .
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